Notes from an Epic Surf Session in SoCal

This is a post I wrote 3 years ago for an older blog.  I like it and found it ideal to bring back to life.

I was driving home from work today and I drove into Encinas Avenue towards the beach.  I was trying to avoid the traffic of the I-5 in Encinitas.  Having surfed every day this week since Sunday, I was not planning on paddling out again today.  I got closer to the beach and something caught my eye right away.  Some dude is smacking the crap out of an overhead peeler.  I was on the phone with my brother in Puerto Rico through all this, and I was like, “Hey, I gotta let you go.  I’m gonna go pick up my board!”

So I pull up to my Leucadia apartment, and run up stairs.  I give my wife a kiss and say “I gotta go! It’s firing!”  I grab my suit, board and leash and head out the door.

I paddle out near the jetty at Carlsbad State Beach, otherwise known as Ponto. As soon as I start heading out I notice the amount of white-water and I make out that the surf is nicely overhead at about 7-8 feet.  I get worked and mauled by a set and eventually make it to the lineup.  While I catch my breath I notice there were about 30 guys out.  But today it is not a problem.  I found a good spot in the lineup and catch my first wave.  A macking left that gets me flying down the line on my 6’1″ DHD Mick Fanning thruster.  I’m stoked.  Unfortunately, I took the first wave of the set and proceed to get worked by the following 6 waves.

After flushing the two gallons of seawater out of my nose I go on to catch a bunch of waves in the remaining hour I have of daylight. The waves are glassy and powerful unlike the last couple of weeks.  I’m having a blast!

The dolphins are catching waves and having a great time, just like the surfers.

I guess dolphins love it when there are waves.  They are everywhere, and totally out of control.  They are just popping up all over the place and sometimes jumping clear out of the water. The dolphins are catching waves and having a great time, just like the surfers.  I have a huge one pop out of the water about 2 feet from me! It’s unreal!

That evening I stayed out ’till I could see no more…  Roundabout 7:45pm. The water was getting dark and sketchy and I could barely make out the lines.  So I catch a final one in. As I walked back to my truck I thought about the awesome session I just had.  I got reminded of why I love the ocean.  Thank God for such an awesome creation! -D